Week 40 to 44 – 16/04/10 Peru

Week 40 to 44 – 16/04/10 Peru

Arequipa

Where do we begin? Originally we came to Arequipa as it has the deepest canyons on earth so we thought we would spend a long weekend here. However our plans were scuppered since we had heard back from the volunteer coordinator in Cusco to say that there was no room for more volunteers for at least a week. So, in our insanity, we signed up for a month in an orphanage in Arequipa.

Our first day was interesting, but the rest of the week was really awful. The volunteer coordinator seemed to have certain privilages and sat in the baby room everyday since it required the least amount of mental or physical energy. The rest of us were either cleaning, washing, ironing or watching over the toddlers which is a handful in itself.

The second week was no better and by Thursday I had taken enough and wanted to quit. Mariana tried to talk me round but knew deep down it was the right thing to do. I went to speak with Carmen (TNT) and she wa very understanding with my decision. However on Friday we both had really good days so I decided to give it one last chance.

At the weekend we visited Cusco to give ourselves a well deserved break and to reflect on the past two weeks at the orphanage. Tuesday came round quickly and we were back at the orphanage, and I had a good chat with the director about the problems and for the first time she seemed to listen and take note. Ultimately, the orphanage cannot run without the help of volunteers, so maybe I felt like I had nothing to loose since they needed me more than I needed them. From then on our time in the orphanage went really well. The last two weeks seem to fly by, and by the end we were actually quite upset to leave the children, they had somehow grown on us over the last four weeks.

Arequipa itself is a beautiful looking city of approx 2 million people which is surrounded by three 6000m peaks, a volcano and two mountains. We were due to climb Mount Misti 5860m, but the weekend we were both very sick and were unable to go. The city is ruined by the smog that constantly hangs over it from the thousands of taxis and buses that buzz around all day and all night. Such a shame to see it happening, and it is so bad that it has created a large hole in the ozone layer because of it.

Cusco

For only three days we visited Cusco, what a mistake. The city is beautiful and does not have the smog problem of Lima or Arequipa. We arrived early evening after an 11 hour bus from Arequipa. Quickly headed into town and started searching for tickets to Machu Picchu. In the end we decided to do our own thing since the tour agents wanted too much commission for really doing little more than queuing at the rail station.

So day two started very early at the train station at 5.45am to buy tickets. By 7am I had tickets in hand and was rushing back to town to collect Mariana as we only had 30 minutes to catch the bus that takes us to the train station 80 km away. Ever since the torrential rains in February that closed Machu Picchu, only a third of the railway had re-opened which meant a replacement bus service was in operation.

We decided that we may miss the bus so negotiated a fare with the taxi driver to take us all the way to Ollantaytambo where the train began. We arrived with an hour to spare before the first train so had a great breakfast on the main square which is really nice. By 11.30am we were at last on the train heading for Agua Calientes, the gateway town to Machu Picchu.

Words cannot explain Machu Picchu, so the following photos should give some idea of the amazing experience we had at this lost inca city. We had already travelled over 6 hours from Cusco and 12 hours from Arequipa to get here, but it was so so worth it. By far the most amazing place we have seen since being in South America, truly amazing.

Lima

After a very short plane ride from Arequipa (cheaper than the bus and 16 hours quicker) we landed in Lima. Decided not to stay in Lima for 2 reasons, pollution and robberies. So many peopke had warned us of the troubles here so spent our day in the international airport lounge eating and chatting on the internet. A great way to pass 5 or 6 hours of free time.

We took a taxi to the bus company where we boarded our 19 hour bus to Tumbes. This time we booked executive class to ensure we received veggie food and a full cama seat the size of a house and get much needed sleep. After our dinner and 3 movies we feel fast asleep.

Tumbes

Tumbes was our last stop in Peru before crossing into Ecuador. After being in town for 5 minutes, we realised we should have continued north and cross the border the same day. Tumbes was awful, typical border town but with no activity, no food, zero. It was awful and could not wait to get out. Luckily, cable tv in the room saved us both for the evening.